I spent the nights of August 31 and September 1 at the Maine Roadhouse so that I could have a much needed zero day. The owners, Jen and Jen, just opened the hostel a couple months ago and provided everything a hiker could want: Shuttle rides to and from the trailhead and into town; a rec-room and lounge; private rooms and a bunk room where all the beds have reading lights and privacy curtains; laundry facilities; a common kitchen and dining room; re-supply food; a hearty breakfast each morning; and outdoor furniture, picnic tables and grill.

While at the hostel I met Bone Spur, the Chappalachian Hiker. He is this year’s AT chaplain that the United Methodist church has chosen to minister to the hiking community. This ministry was born at a church down south that ministers to hikers by letting them sleep in their basement and providing breakfast for them during the spring thru hiking season.
The Bigelow Mountains were the last of the 4000’ peaks that I had to climb until Katahdin. As I hiked up these peaks, a cold front from Hurricane Ida moved into western Maine. I had been wondering if bringing my down puffy jacket had been a mistake. I was thankful I had it while camping at higher elevations where the night temperatures were in the low 40s.

At the first road crossing after the Bigelows, some volunteers from the Maine Appalachian Trail Club treated the thru hikers to trail magic: Cheeseburgers, chips, potato salad, and drinks. They have been doing this event for twenty years in a row. What a treat!

The day after the trail magic, I finally found what I was looking for- a day without mountains! I spent the hours hiking from lake to lake. If the temperatures had been warmer, I would have gone swimming! It’s always a treat to camp next to a lake and listen to the loons at night.

The morning of my Nero at Caratunk, I took advantage of the opportunity to experience an old Maine sportsman’s camp. For a fee, this off the grid, the rustic camp lets hikers join them for a pancake breakfast. It was fun chatting with the owner and getting to know some more hikers. After breakfast, I hiked back to my camp, packed up, headed to the canoe ferry to cross the Kennebec River, and then headed to town for resuppy and a bed.



From the unpredictable river to the bees nest and pancake breakfasts, it sounds like you’re having a blast! Sending love! Corina and Tony
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So I am puzzled by the ferry- this rowboat/paddler is it? After reading the warnings on the sign I was envisioning a churning, gushing river with a distant shore. With all the dangers you have faced on the trail, this spot would not have been the place I would have guessed you needed additional help! All is not as it appears, I am sure!
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Rachel, the Kennebec River is low due to drought. There is a lot more water during the daily dam releases upstream.
On Tue, Sep 7, 2021 at 8:46 PM Ken hikes the Appalachian Trail wrote:
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